Well Fashsetters the final fashion week has come and gone. It may have been last, but most definitely not least! The Parisians kept us on our toes at all times… Let us take a look at the top highlights and trends from this season’s Paris Fashion Week Spring 2015:
1) Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire showed his final collection this season. Lemaire put his own spin on that legacy when he cut the relatively penitent shape of a scarf-draped smock from palest python. That scarf drape? A little bit tribal. The accent colors? Saffron and sand. The patterns? More graphic tribalism. Travel is in Hermès’ genes, so it was only expected for his last walk down the Hermès catwak, Lemaire took us to parts far and beyond!
2) Chanel, whose creative director is non other than the eccentric Karl Lagerfeld said in regards to the collection this year, “I normally never dig in my past, but suddenly I had a vision,” – There were exuberant psychedelic splotches of watercolor shading everything from coat linings to boots, but there were also pristine white lace yokes. But there was also sober navy tailoring, with seams outlined in white. Lacquered pinstripes, and Art Deco organzas were seen as well. “They’re all pieces everyone can play with. No ’60s, no ’70s, no whatever, more mode de vie than mode.”
3) Christian Dior collection was an epitome of 18th century and the 22nd century knocked boots, bypassing everything in between. The effect was compounded by a definite futuristic feel. From the pale pink of a shapely linen coat, to the orange satin linen gilet that closed the show. It referenced an 18th-century court coat, which evoked the historicism of Christian Dior’s original Bar silhouette. As fashion present floats on an ocean of fashion past, creative director Raf Simons simply chose to ride the time machine a little further back. But he paired his gilet with Bermuda shorts. It was a look you could imagine piquing the interest of the women he’s drawn to Dior. A perfect judicious blend of fantasy and reality!
4) Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz insists that he knows a dress is working when he looks into a model’s face and sees the face, not the dress. There were faces aplenty in his show tonight: Amber Valletta, Kirsten Owen, Violetta Sanchez, Natasa Vojnovic, and more—iconic names for those who follow models like others pledge themselves to their favorite bands. And, said Elbaz, they didn’t need nearly the makeup of their younger compadres on the catwalk. Experience is apparently the best maquillage. The show opened with variations on the theme of a jersey T-shirt dress: one-shouldered, side-zipped or -buttoned, looped, snake-belted, each option sported by a model Elbaz had plucked from his past. It was a spectacular start, with a strong, simple, dramatic emphasis on the women who wear Lanvin. Elbaz sustained that mood through a reinterpretation of his own classics for the house, with pieces unstitched, topstitched, stapled, side-slit, oddly urgent in their unfinished state, before anchoring his collection at the midpoint with Kirsten Owen in an Empire-line, billowing-sleeved gown that was a plain tour de force. The slipdresses, tiered silks, and fractured laces that followed were a hybrid expression of Lanvin and Elbaz.
5) Louis Vuitton as one knows is not just for handbags…don’t be fooled! Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director for LV, masterpiece collection was gleaming like the Bois de Boulogne in the October sun! The cut of the clothes were designed to be familiar. Cue a navy blazer and cropped jeans worn with a white high-necked blouse, a fitted green sweater tucked into a mid-length black skirt with a high middle slit in the front and back, a straightforward peacoat. This collection was more filled-in, with plush velvet pantsuits, densely sequined zip-front mini-dresses worn with thick, textured tights. And, of course, there was leather, pieced together in bright stripes on a shirtdress or, quite spectacularly, cut into thin strips and woven with metal rings in such a manner that a high-necked mini-dress almost resembled lace. Ghesquière may have embraced wearable design, but you’d better believe he understands how to make his work stand out. Take the heels that enlivened the boots here: colorful, plastic, and cleverly cut in the shape of the LV monogram flower.
6) Jean Paul Gaultier staged his last prêt-à-porter show ever in Paris this season at Le Grand Rex, a cinema in Paris’ second arrondissement. “End of an era,” the stories went when he announced earlier this month that he would cease his ready-to-wear collection to focus on haute couture and his perfume business. Élection de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015, as it was called, was divided into sections showcasing the designer’s most famous work, along with some questionable outliers. Gaultier hasn’t lost his touch when it comes to man-for-woman tailoring; the fact that his double-breasted jacket/cocktail-dress hybrids look so normal now is a testament to how groundbreaking and subversive his talent was. The of-a-certain-age gals who teetered down the runway arm in arm with bare-chested men were a reminder of the ways he challenged not just runway conventions but also mainstream attitudes. Nor has Gaultier lost his notorious sense of humor.
Those were some top highlights from the Parisian catwalk! Now let’s take a look at the top trends seen at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2015 this year:
1) Late 60’s/Early 70’s Inspiration
2) Daring Dark Denim
3) Retro Flowers
4) Her Highness High Necklines
5) Sultry Scarves
6) Costume to Conscious Consumer
7) HIgh & Mighty Hats
8) Sexy & Sheer
9) Curvy Cut-Outs
10) Wonderlust White
And that’s the wrap up of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2015! Stay tuned for our final blog post coming up with the top highlights and trends from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2015.
As always, stay fashionable, stay fabulous!